Autumn (Sept – November)
Birds
This is
arguably one of the most exciting times of year for the birder with
chance of birds from opposite sides of the globe but there are also
plenty of regular migrants that make autumn birding on the Outer
Hebrides very exciting. Positioned as we are way out in the far
north-west we are in line as first landfall for wildfowl coming down
from Iceland and Greenland. Quite amazingly a lot of this wildfowl just
keeps moving and when conditions are right with cool, calm weather with
a northerly air flow huge numbers of swans and geese can be seen passing
over the islands. Admittedly some of these birds do stop, some obviously
exhausted yet the desire to keep going is strong and flocks of
Barnacle Geese heading for Islay can often be heard and seen passing
over in thousands. They are not alone with flocks of Greenland White-fronted
Geese, Pale-bellied Brents and Icelandic Pink-footed Geese
passing too. These mass
movements are often accompanied by large movements of southward bound
Whooper Swans that are utilising the same good flight
conditions. It’s a truly evocative sound to hear the distant honking of Whoopers gradually getting louder until eventually the large white
shapes appear overhead and the distant voices suddenly materialise into
these superb birds.
Other wildfowl also begins to increase with numbers of
diving ducks being supplemented by birds from Iceland and the winter
residents such as the Long-tailed Duck returning to the bays and sounds.
This is also a time of great excitement for those interested in the
unusual with the chance of something from across the Atlantic.
Ring-necked Duck and American Wigeon are regularly seen and there’s
usually a Surf Scoter or two in the Sound of Taransay, Harris. Real
Canada Geese are also occasionally seen and the odd Bean Goose coming
from the opposite direction.
(juv. Surf Scoter, Loch Ardvule Oct 2006)
Waders pass through in huge numbers too with masses of Dunlin, Sanderling, Ringed Plover and Turnstone littering the beaches of the Uists. Black-tailed Godwits are also evident during September frequently stopping off for a while to refuel, as they move south to avoid the Icelandic winter. Masses of Golden Plover and Lapwings also arrive and American Golden Plover are regularly picked up amongst flocks of their commoner European cousin. Other regular birds that have crossed the Atlantic are Pectoral Sandpiper and Buff-breasted Sandpiper. Incredibly in autumn 2005 and 2006 a flock of five Buff-breasts were seen making the Outer Hebrides probably one of the best places in the U.K. to look for this species in September.
(Juv Buff-breasted Sandpiper, Eochar Sept. 2006, John Kemp)
The Outer Hebrides have become synonymous with some birders as the place to come for seabird passage in the Spring and more precisely for skua passage but Autumn is also an excellent time for seabirds. The weather generally has to be rough to experience a good seabird passage with chances of Leach's Petrel, Storm Petrel, Grey Phalarope, Sabine’s Gull and shearwaters. Large numbers of Manx may be seen and Sooty Shearwater can almost be guaranteed but recently one site has come to light for the larger shearwaters. The Butt of Lewis has seen some huge movements (in Scottish terms) of Great Shearwaters in 2006 and both Great and Cory’s were seen from here in 2005. Excellent sea-watching may also be had from Labost, Lewis; Ardvule, South Uist and Griminish Point, North Uist. Conditions are often demanding during good sea-watching although you can sit in the relative comfort of your car (at least at the moment) at the Butt.
(Red-breasted Flycatcher, N Uist Oct 2006; Brian Rabbitts)
Migrant
passerines are often at their most common during the autumn but don’t come to the Outer Hebrides and expect to see falls of warblers as
you won’t. Most species are fairly scarce with the commonest being
Blackcap and Chiffchaff later in the autumn and Willow
Warbler earlier.
Garden Warbler is uncommon as are Whitethroat and
Lesser Whitethroat.
Wood Warbler are scarce and Barred Warbler is probably just about
annual. Quite amazingly Yellow-browed Warblers have become a
feature in the last few years with probably in excess of 20
Yellow-broweds being picked up during autumn 2006. Other
uncommon migrants are Whinchat, Redstart, Pied, Spotted
and Red-breasted
Flycatcher. Reed Warbler is very
uncommon although both Marsh and Blyth’s Reed Warblers have also been noted in
recent autumns. Basically birds that might be common on the east coast
during autumn are often scarce here although you're really looking at
quality, not quantity in the Outer Hebrides. Recent autumns have
produced stunning rarities with records of Rose-breasted
Grosbeak, Yellow Warbler, Blackpoll Warbler,
Red-eyed Vireo and Britain's first
Long-tailed Shrike.
Mammals
This time of year is excellent for Otters as the males wander further a field than in the summer and coupled with the fact that many females have cubs which are often vocal, chance encounters are more likely. It's not guaranteed but spend a bit of time looking in sheltered inlets on the east side or amongst rook pools at low tide, listening for the young animals high pitched "Peep" and scanning with a pair of binoculars and you'd be unlucky not to see an Otter or two.
Red
Deer are at
their most active in the autumn both vocally and sexually. Once October arrives you can hear
the bellowing of stags echoing around the hillsides, advertising their
prowess in an attempt to woo a female or two. It’s a sound of the wild,
a sound of power and Red Deer in rut are spectacular. It’s the best time
of year to find them as the stags are at their most impressive as they
compete for the hinds. They can be found throughout the main islands
from Lewis to South Uist although certain locations in Harris and South
Uist are probably the best as the atmosphere is superb.
(Red Deer Loch Skipport, South Uist. Dec 2006)
(Grey Seal pup, North Uist, November 2006)
Grey Seals are also very active in the autumn as this is the main pupping season. From October through November thousands of Grey Seal give birth on isolated rocky islands and beaches. The most impressive colony is on the Monachs where there are around 30,000 Grey Seals. Unfortunately it's not easy to get here even though it's only 4 miles west of North Uist few fishing vessels (that you may be able to get a lift with) venture out this way at this time of year. Landing can be tricky with the swell but the sandy shores should allow landing at some location if you can get the lift in the first place. There are around 9,000 pups a year born at this colony (the largest in Britain and second largest in the world) and consequently some of these end up on North Uist and Benbecula after westerly gales. There are a number of other colonies or rookeries as they are known scattered around the Outer Hebrides including North Rona but the easiest to see are those that give birth on the small islands in the Sound of Harris, not far from the regular ferry run between North Uist and Harris. You can also see Common Seals at various favoured locations around the isles with an interpretation board at the favoured haul out on Berneray.
Insects
Like some of
the birds, some of the insects also make monumental journeys and the
autumn is the time when you may encounter something special. In 2006
young Calum MacInnes of Eriskay took a large moth to school to show his teachers. I
think they were rather surprised to find a moth with a 2 inch wingspan
and pink bars on its abdomen. It turned out to be a Convolvulus Hawkmoth; a very impressive insect that probably originated from
somewhere far to the south of here. In spring Convolvulus Hawkmoths set
off from North Africa into southern Europe where they breed. After these
moths hatch they also head north and are
probably the ones responsible for sightings in the U.K. although there
are few sightings in the Outer Hebrides. 2006 was an excellent year for
migrant moths throughout the U.K. with some southern species reaching
our shores such as the Vestal and Scarce-bordered Straw,
both of which were new for the islands.
Some of the butterflies are also migrants e.g. Red Admirals, Painted Lady’s and the Peacock. The latter species is scarce in the Western Isles but it is showing signs of expansion further south and may become more regular in future years. The most dramatic feat must go to the Monarch butterflies twice recorded here; once in the 50’s on Benbecula and once in the 80’s on Baleshare. This very distinctive, large butterfly is a long distant migrant along the eastern seaboard of the U.S.A. They move south at the same time as many migrant birds in the U.S. and likewise occasionally get caught up in the same weather systems that bring them to our shores. Still, it's pretty incredible that any make it across the Atlantic even with a tail wind.
( More on insects of the Western Isles here)
Plants
Many of the
wild flowers have set seed although some are still in bloom in to
September such as the Field Gentian and the Autumn
Gentian that is represented here by the subspecies
septentrianalis. It can be found along the coast between North
Tolsta and Ness in Lewis. The season is most marked by the machair crofting techniques. Those crops that are being kept for
seed or dried in a traditional manner are often stooked. The ripe seed
and stalks of oats, barley and rye are first gathered into small bundles.
These bundles are then stacked together to form a stook and eventually
the stooks are gathered up to form large stacks that may be brought
close to the home or left on the machair. The harvesting of the crops is an excellent insight into
why the islands hold so much wildlife with the less intensive
agricultural practices and lack of herbicides etc, all contributing to a
rich environment. Corn Buntings are reliant on the stooks being fed to
livestock in the winter and many wild flower require the less intensive
systems. Things are changing and modern times as well as problems from
resident Greylag Geese are driving some crofters to silage the crop earlier and
earlier threatening the survival of many species associated with
the machair although it's still an excellent place, rich in wildlife at
the moment.